Out of the core four of fashion month, New York has always been a runner up to my all-time favorite: London-town. Except, things shifted for the better this season. I was pleasantly surprised to see many designers revert to a classic route with a collegiate feel and a nod to the rock and roll scene of the 70s. I happen to determine my winners of the season but what watches by on social media. So without further ado, the results are in.
Coach 1941: It’s been a new era at Coach ever since Stuart Vever signed on two years ago. It's quite ironic how Vever, an Englishmen, understands the All-American mindset of Coach and is able to create a functional yet incredibly cool collection that is filled with all the 'It' items, but also ones that follow through on the classic spectrum. In Pre-Fall, Vever gave us a more western take on the Americana style complete with shearling and cowboy style piping. For Fall 2016, Coach goes back to school. The letterman jackets and shearling details were the stand outs of the show, as the accessories sadly fell a little flat in comparison to past collections. Still, it is quite refreshing to see Coach becoming the comeback kid once again.
Jonathan Simkhai: I've been following the CFDA/Vogue 2015 winner for quite some time now as each of his collections always bring some new to the fashion dinner table. Some new(er) designers struggle with finding their voice in the competitive realm, but Simkhai has only proved that he knows the game and can play it will immense style and skill. Each look that was sent down the runway had an equilibrium of strength and softness. The lace dresses were geometric and sharp, but also oozed femininity and sex appeal. The lacing was intricate and unique; mirroring webbing more than your grandmother's doily. The designer has a longstanding penchant for architectural influences in his collections, but where he is succeeding.... is that these bold pieces are also wearable.
Frame Denim: Season after season, I constantly wish that my whole wardrobe was curated by the designer duo behind Frame. They've continued to become a fixture in the denim world with their quality jeans, but I'm falling more for the ready-to-wear pieces nowadays. The inspiration behind the collection was "one foot in the 1960s and another in the 1970s". You see snippets of the rock n roll scene of Paris, but also a certain polish of a smartly dressed women of the 60s. The outerwear rivaled the denim for the number one spot.... navy capes, biker jackets, and peacoats makes you question how many coats you really need. Frame continues to be a trailblazer in creating a new way of dressing unique to their brand, similar to what Slimane has done with Saint Laurent, and what Reformation has created with #RefBabes. If Frame continues to keep the ball rolling, more great things will be seen.